Cycling Trips: MenYuan, XiaHe

From June – August, most parts of China during the summer become unbearably hot and humid. Historically there were three furnaces (三大火炉) – Chongqing, Nanjing, and Wuhan- cities that were notorious for their deathly summer heat. Then there were four furnaces (Changsha being the forth), then seven… and now thanks to global warming there are like 20+ furnace cities in China.

Luckily for us in the northwest, we have wonderfully tolerable summer days, due to high altitude and low humidity. This makes for great exploration of the vast fields/ plains/ grasslands that make up most of Qinghai and some parts of Gansu. I spent some time in MenYuan and XiaHe to enjoy the scenery and good climate- and was smart enough to bring a jacket, as temperatures plummeted at night.

MenYuan

MenYuan is two hours northwest of Lanzhou by high speed rail. Had I arrived in mid-July, i would have been greeted with endless fields of bright yellow canola flowers. I went a week late (around the end of July) and missed out on peak-canola season, but the vista was still astounding. Fullscreen capture 8302018 103506 AM.bmp.jpg

I couldn’t find anything online about how to rent a bicycle, but that wasnt an issue in the end- the plaza outside the MenYuan rail station hosted a bike rental shop for the adventurous traveler. A full day rental costs 100 RMB, and i dropped off my US Passport as a deposit (the guys at the shop had never seen one, and gleefully passed it around for a short while) Fullscreen capture 8302018 103420 AM.bmp

i swerved off the main highway into the small villages to check out the scene. the lifestyle there was still very traditional- people had collected cow dung to burn for fuel, and piled the dried dung into large mounds. (village not pictured, but see cows below)Fullscreen capture 8302018 103457 AM.bmp

there were also many beekeepers who come through Qinghai in the summer to let their bees do the work of pollinating the flowers, and collect fresh honey in return. Fullscreen capture 8302018 103439 AM.bmp

the downside is that I must have rode through areas of heavy bee traffic, and a bee got caught in my hair and stung my scalp! (a bee trapped in human hair will recognize the situation to be a bear attack, and sting when it cannot get out of what it thinks is bear fur. i know this from my Redhook community farm beekeeping days! see below for evidence from 2014)Fullscreen capture 8302018 103124 AM.bmp

The sting caused lingering pain for a good 15 – 20 minutes. i decided to protect myself by wrapping my hair in my t-shirt for the rest of the day…Fullscreen capture 8302018 103515 AM.bmp

Xiahe

I had come here last summer to see Labrang Monastery, and returned again to check out the local grasslands. I rented a bike for 50 RMB and rode south of the monastery.Fullscreen capture 8302018 103716 AM.bmp

the views were not as splendid as the plains in Qinghai (mostly because the grasslands here have been fenced off, and no matter how far away from the touristy areas i biked, everything was still enclosed). however, i did see a lot of bored-looking horses; born with the ability to run endlessly through the wilderness, but fated to spend a lifetime sequestered in a few acres of land to pose with tourists for a small sum of moneyFullscreen capture 8302018 103727 AM.bmp

i sent the horse photo to my parents (“oh no! the baby horse is dead!”) but i think foals sleep on the ground… i think…Fullscreen capture 8302018 103654 AM.bmp

the street signs were interesting where everything was written three times- in simplified Chinese, tibetan script, and English (or a phonetic translation of tibetan script, more accurately. the tibetan script pronunciation sounds nothing like mandarin chinese)Fullscreen capture 8302018 103733 AM.bmp

at some point, the distant dark clouds caught up with me, and on my return journey home i was forced to ride under a patch of cloud that was relentlessly pounding the ground below with rain… i didnt want to miss the bus back to Lanzhou so i had no choice but to speed through the 1km span of angry cloud, and was utterly drenched… but a few minutes later i emerged into the sunshine yet again!

Labrang Monastery བླ་བྲང་བཀྲ་ཤིས་འཁྱིལ and more: the Chengs reunite in Lanzhou!

Mid-September my mom visited Lanzhou to check I was alive, 15 months into my Peace Corps service. In addition to cleaning my apartment from corner to corner (“its so dirty! Its so so dirty!”) we took a short weekend trip down to Xiahe, which is home to Labrang Monastery and the Sangke GrasslandsFullscreen capture 1092017 80638 PM.bmp.jpg

Labrang Monastery and Sangke GrasslandsFullscreen capture 1092017 80436 PM.bmp

Founded in 1709, Labrang Monastery is Tibetan Buddhism’s most sacred complex outside of the Tibetan Autonomous Region. At one point it was home to over 4,000 monks but this number has been cut by 2/3 since the Cultural Revolution. Today it is also a functioning school for studying Buddhist law, religion, medicine, etc.Fullscreen capture 1092017 80647 PM.bmp

We were admitted into some of the temples and halls when prayer sessions were not being held. I was most impressed by the boxes and boxes of centuries-old scrolls and sutras housed inside, lining the interior walls up to the ceiling (like a scene out of Beauty and the Beast, when superficial Belle is blown away that the Beast is actually literate and not just an animal-thug)

Some of the exterior murals on the temple walls were phenomenal with incredible detail and colors. The frescos depict various guardians/ gods/ demons battling for dominanceFullscreen capture 1092017 83356 PM.bmp

The entire perimeter of the complex is made of a 3.5 km continuous corridor of prayer wheels – lifelong Tibetan Buddhists have traveled hundreds of miles to come here to pray and receive blessings. The most devoted will not simply walk and spin prayer wheels- instead, they bow and prostrate themselves on the ground every step of the way around the entire Labrang complex.Fullscreen capture 1092017 80445 PM.bmp

I attempted a sketch of this (leaving much of the image black and white- a new style for me, perhaps!)22277892_1694771400554991_6830050048584187904_n.jpg

The day was generally cloudy and even rainy, but for half an hour the sun came out and gave us perfect blue skies.Fullscreen capture 1092017 80455 PM.bmp

The Sangke grasslands were rather underwhelming. I imagined a vast field as far as the eye could see, with the spirits of wild horses and Tibetan/ Mongol herders soaring freely across miles and miles of wild pastures. In reality, most of these lands have been fenced off into small squares by the owners, so the grasslands have been tamed in some sense.Fullscreen capture 1092017 80236 PM.bmp.jpg

Still, I got a wonderful photo of the family that stayed on the particular plot of land (they were Tibetan for surethey did not speak mandarin Chinese). The baby is impressively unimpressed, and the young man is ruggedly handsome in a way that comes so naturally for Tibetans.

He wouldn’t look out of place in an ad for Hermes or Prada (see below) but instead of being a moody, pretentious prick, he’s just living his life…Fullscreen capture 1092017 113025 PM.bmp.jpg

Gansu Museum

Back in Lanzhou, we visited the Gansu Museum in the Qilihe district. The highlight here is the Bronze Running Horse- crafted some 2,000 years ago, it was rediscovered during the Cultural Revolution, and (thankfully!) not destroyed in some crazed political movement shortly after. The horse is no ordinary horse- it is a Celestial Horse, a prized breed of beautiful and fearless warhorses from the Fergana valley of Uzbekistan.Fullscreen capture 1092017 80605 PM.bmp

Personally, I was equally as impressed by the “Tiger-Devouring Sheep Pedestal” made some 2,500 years ago! Both the horse and tiger are on my sketch list… stay tuned!Fullscreen capture 1092017 80711 PM.bmp

The Vegetable Lady

Outside my school there is an indoor market that sells live chickens, fish, and fresh vegetables. I go to the same lady to buy groceries (she’s friendly and always gives me free parsley and chili peppers), and sometimes I have difficulty understanding her heavily-accented Chinese, so I brought my mom along for support.Fullscreen capture 1092017 80830 PM.bmp

The following (pleasant, at least initially) exchange occurred.

Vegetable Lady: Hi! So… is he your only child?

Mom: No, I have an older daughter. She’s 3 years older than him, shes 31

Lady: 31! Is she married? 你的姑娘结婚了没?

Mom: No, she’s not married.

Lady: WHAT? 31 AND SINGLE?Fullscreen capture 1092017 82054 PM.bmp

Mom: yes.. it’s quite normal in America and in New York.

Lady (shocked, and feeling extreme pity for my mom): BUT… YOU DON’T HAVE GRANDKIDS?

Mom: Yeah… I mean its not a big deal… I’ve lived in America for 35 years, it’s really not as important as it is in China…Fullscreen capture 1092017 82104 PM.bmp

Lady (speaking as if our entire family was a failure): NO GRANDKIDS? No grandkids to hug… no grandkids to hug… (没孙子抱! 没孙子抱…)

*later, as we leave the market*

Mom: Oh my god… even the vegetable vendor is hounding me about grandkids!!!

Weekend in Lanzhou

My dad and sister finally made it to Lanzhou, just for the weekend (they were busy touring Beijing and the ancient capital Xi’An – the schedule was packed) so we did a quick tour of the must-see things in Lanzhou:

The night market at Zhenging Road. There is a line around the block for 牛奶鸡蛋醪糟, a hot, frothy milk-egg-cereal drink. kind of loud, kind of crowded- sums up Lanzhou nicelyFullscreen capture 1092017 90235 PM.bmp

Lanzhou Beef Noodle Sampler (I have an entire post dedicated to these beef noodles)Fullscreen capture 1092017 82025 PM.bmp

Mine turned out to be a single strand of noodle, much to everyone’s amusementFullscreen capture 1092017 80800 PM.bmp

San Pao Tai Tea by the German Bridge/ Yellow River (best view in the Lanzhou, also home to some of the dirtiest toilets in the city as my mom found out.. which is why I always just pee in the bushes)Fullscreen capture 1092017 80748 PM.bmp

And of course, a dinner 涮羊肉 with our relatives here in the city. After 55+ years (I won’t reveal my mom’s age!), she finally meets her older half-sister. About time!Fullscreen capture 1092017 91954 PM.bmp